Circa, the Prince

 17/20  

Contemporary

There will always be a place for the high-end special-occasion restaurant. But if we part with $150 or $200 a head, an outfit like Circa had better deliver. Service must be flawless, the atmosphere gently coddling and the menu should surprise and delight. Circa has the basics down pat. The room, always special, was under renovation as we went to press. The service, while a little earnest, is smoothly professional. On to the food. An entree of baby vegetables with a goat's cheese-flavoured emulsion and sprinkled with 'soil' made from granules of beetroot is technically superb and terrific value for this workmanship at $20. Chef Matthew Wilkinson veers from the Spanish-influenced combination of octopus and chorizo, to Asian-style seared tuna with miso puree, to an earthy terrine. Best bet is the degustation menu ($115, and vegetarian available), where the surprises keep coming. Desserts provide a grand finale – maybe a deconstructed pavlova that comes with a pile of what looks like rock salt but is in fact coconut granita. Wilkinson's efforts to make every dish work hard might challenge more conservative diners. Come expecting the odd surprise, and be prepared to take the occasional leap of faith.

Open Daily 7–11am; Sun noon–3pm; Mon–Sat 6–10pm
Typical prices E $25 M $39 D $19
Cards AE DC MC V
Wine Biblically long list, strong on Italian varieties; 10 by the glass
Owners John and Lisa van Haandel
Chef Matthew Wilkinson
Seats 80; private room; bar