15/20
Modern regional
If it weren't for this out-of-the-way retreat, fussy food lovers may never find cause to look up 'Noojee' in their street directories. But here – among a forest of towering mountain ash, landscaped gardens and farming bric-a-brac – is a rustic arcadia that affords few outward clues to the sophistication of the regional cuisine within. John Snelling (once head chef at Cafe Di Stasio) spends hours crisscrossing Gippsland to source his produce. It's a passion that's enabled him to build an inspiring repertoire of dishes made from local ingredients; the provenance of each is proudly listed on the menu – Jindi cheese, Brandy Creek quail, Blackwood Farm Organics. Dishes display flair and subtlety, and make the most of his hard-won bounty. Quail might be deboned and stuffed with pork sausage, mustard and roasted garlic. Goat's cheese could be encased in a brandy snap and served with juicy, in-season figs. Inventive pastas are house-made, like thin beetroot linguine with smoked eel, or wattleseed tagliatelle with braised squab. Perhaps follow that with roasted duck breast and rhubarb sauce or pan-fried barramundi, then char-grilled peaches soused with Frangelico and vanilla-bean syrup. You can retreat to The Outpost cottages afterwards.
Open Fri–Sun noon–2pm; Fri–Sat 6–8pm
Typical prices E $18 M $36 D $16
Cards AE DC MC V Eftpos
Wine Well-priced list with a focus on local wines; 14 by the glass
Owners John and Barb Snelling
Chef John Snelling
Seats 80; outdoor seating 
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