15/20
Contemporary
Gentlemen are expected to wear a collared shirt, denim is out, and guests are asked to turn off their mobile phones at this gracious dining room which celebrates formality in a casual, no-dresscode world. The mansion and grounds of the luxury Chateau Yering hotel are history-filled – Victoria's first grapevines were planted here, producing prize-winning wine in the 1880s – but the cooking reflects modern skills and sensibilites. Degustation menus, including one for vegetarians, exploit local ingredients: Yarra Valley quail is roasted with a foie gras stuffing and served with truffled linguine. It's a dish that's beautiful to look at, its many flavours harmonious. Fillets of John Dory are a highlight, seared and lifted by the addition of poached crayfish, caulifower puree, truffles and a bisque foam. You may dine on succulent roasted suckling pig, smoked duck breast, or perhaps venison, roasted rare. Among the perfectly plated desserts, an apricot souffle threatens to float off the plate. Though sometimes dim lighting may add to the feel of a bygone-era, service is old-fashionedly good.
Open Daily 6.30–10pm; Sat–Sun noon–4pm
Typical prices Set menus $70 (2 courses); $95 (3 courses); $125 (8 courses)
Cards AE DC MC V Eftpos
Wine Extensive list of Australian wines with an emphasis on the Yarra Valley; many bottle-aged wines; 10 by the glass; mark-ups can be high
Owners Len and Elly Milner
Chef Mathew Macartney
Seats 110; private room; bar 
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